Road Trip – Castellammare del Golfo, Sicily to Miami, FL

I know that I should have written this entry a while ago but…I’ve been trying to block it….you’ll understand when you read it….a bumpy road trip….

Corso Garibaldi

My last morning in Castellammare del Golfo and I was up at 3:30am, so I would be ready by 5:15am.  The first leg of my road trip. Felice, my cousin-in-law, was bringing me to the Punta Raisi aka Falcone-Borsellino airport in Palermo. He drove by Corso Garibaldi for me. By 6:00am, I said “A presto” (see you soon) to Felice and went through TSA in no time. On the quick flight to Rome, I had an espresso and cornetto.

Arrived in Rome, went through TSA and passport control then trekked to the farthest international terminal, of course!! Thankfully my checked luggage would have its’ own trek.

Once I arrived at the Alitalia gate, I checked on my seat assignment and waited to board the flight to Miami. A little while later, there was an announcement of a delay due to a strike of the French air traffic controllers. Really??

Now, those of you who have traveled know all about these strikes, especially in Europe!! They can be a P.I.T.A (rompicoglioni) and cause all kinds of travel nightmares.

As I waited, with another espresso, I thought of the time my younger sister Sarah and I went to the Seville Expo (Spain) eons ago. The day of our return to NY, via Madrid to JFK, there was a strike by Spanair in Malaga.  We had to re-book our flights and unfortunately had to stay in Torremolinos, on the beach, another two days!!!  A very big inconvenience! Vito laughed when I called him to ask him to call my boss and tell her the news. Mmmmm….maybe an extra day or two in Rome wasn’t a bad idea….

Two hours later, an announcement was made stating that the Spanish air traffic controllers will be taking over and we could board. Once everyone was settled and Alitalia turned on the in-flight entertainment, I turned my favorite news channel – BBC.

That’s when I heard that EgyptAir Flight MS804 crashed in the eastern Mediterranean Sea.  Holy #$!)  All  you could hear was gasping all around the plane. Except for a  young couple sitting across from me, who were still complaining about the delay. When I told them what happened, they continued complaining. I then said “Stop complaining. It could’ve been you”.  They finally shut up!!

Finally arrived in Miami!!  Then a 3 hour trek home!!

My last full day in Castellammare del Golfo

Up at 6:00am. Walked to the Corso and had cappuccino & a wonderful tort at Café Cucece this morning, as Cafe Garibaldi is closed. Plus I bought some sweets for Maria later today.  I watched the construction crew work on the building renovation and was sad to see the swallows still flying around looking for their nests.

Swallow nests under a balcony
Swallow nests were destroyed during renovation.

 

 

 

 

After breakfast I walked down the Corso, over the bridge to the castle and beyond and took more photos.

Water View from Piazza Vincenzo Santangelo
Piazza Vincenzo Santangelo

 

 

 

 

Harbour View from Piazza Vincenzo Santangelo
Lost at Sea Memorial in Piazza Vincenzo Santangelo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then went to Plaza Europa to the fruit vendor for strawberries. Afterwards, I  saw the fruit vendor truck and purchased peaches for Maria.

Plaza Europa fruit vendor
Traveling Fruit Vendor

 

 

 

 

 

Went shopping for a few souvenirs along the way and saw a small shop that caught my eye, as it had large lighthouses out front. It is Sikelia Sicilian Souvenir Shop and the manger is a wonderful young man named Leonardo.

Leonardo and Cristina at their shop Sikelia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 His surname is the same as my cousin Maria’s maiden name and I asked, as all genealogists do, if they were related.  He said no, but aren’t we all related in some way?  A very wise young man. It was a pleasure talking to him. 

I saw Bernardo and he was on his way to go swimming. He asked if I was packed and ready for my return home. NO!

My next stop was to Maria’s for lunch with her & Renzo – macaroni with zucchini sauce and tomatoes, then grilled potatoes and lamb, fruit (those wonderful blackberries) and peaches, cookies (including arancia). TDF!! While eating the pasta (which Maria handmakes fresh everyday), I closed my eyes as I was enjoying the flavors!! Maria thought I needed to sleep (dormire is what I heard). I laughed and told Renzo to please tell Maria that lunch was wonderful and I was in heaven, savoring every bite!! We all laughed!!! I spent most of the afternoon with them. It was a joy to be there. 

Walking back to the B&B, I stopped at the Villa Margherita (Comunale) and took more photos there & along the way.  

View of the harbour from Villa Comunale
Banyan tree in Villa Comunale
Gardens inside the Villa Comunale
Monument inside the Villa Comunale

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plus, since Vernaci is right across the street from the Villa Comunale, I had to stop at Vernaci for a delicious gelato!!

When I arrived back at the B&B, I saw Felice, his parents and my cousin Maria Elena (Felice’s wife). They stopped by the wish me “Buon Giornato”.

Another wonderful day!! I’m sad to be leaving.

A Great Day – Café Garibaldi and San Vito Lo Capo

At this point in time, I did not realize that word had spread throughout the town of my family history search.  Nor that people noticed that I had my coffee at the Café Garibaldi on the Corso Garibaldi every morning but Wednesday, when it was closed.

Corso Garibaldi
Corso Garibaldi
Corso Garibaldi
Corso Garibaldi

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, I was surprised when I arrived at the Café Garibaldi, and was greeted by two older gentlemen. I was asked by one, if I spoke Italian. I said unfortunately no. He introduced himself as Leonardo Galatioto and his brother Felice. They have a sister in Floral Park NY. One gentleman is a retired police officer, who spoke some English. I told them that my “parenti” came from Castellammare del Golfo.

[Note:  My grandfather, Rosario Milano’s mother was Anna Galatioto (daughter of Rosario Galatioto and Catherine Sceusa). I wondered if they were of this lineage. Add to that, I recently received a copy of my parents’ NYC marriage record, which shows a Rosario Galatioto as Dad’s best man.]

Leonardo and Felice asked to see my family tree chart and the book. While perusing, they told me that I may want to check documents, especially the city directories, at the library. But said the archivist is on vacation until Monday.

They were amazed at the amount of information I had. Plus, when they saw the photos, they were surprised to see my cousin Lorenzo, who had recently passed away, as they were friends. They hugged and kissed me.  My friend Enzo also joined us for caffé normale.

Cousin Bernardo also joined us. He said we will take a drive to the sea town of San Vito Lo Capo. I wanted to go back to this town as my sister and I enjoyed it many years ago.  It is beautiful there and very relaxing. 

Plus, I wanted to take photos of the inside of the church, Santuario San Vito Lo Capo.

Inside the Santuario (Church) in San Vito Lo Capo
Inside the Santuario (Church) in San Vito Lo Capo
Grotto inside the Santuario (Church) in San Vito Lo Capo
Grotto inside the Santuario (Church) in San Vito Lo Capo

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back in Castellammare del Golfo that evening for a delicious pizza at Mama Cocha and gelato from Vernaci next door at Villa Comunale Regina Margherita.

Another wonderful day!!!!

Monument In Calatafimi

After our visit to the Stato Civile in Calatafimi, touring the museum for Garibaldi & walking around the town, cousin Bernardo had another place for me to see.

We drove out into the mountainous countryside around Calatafimi. As we were driving up a mountain, a camper was coming down the mountain road. Bernardo waved his arm out the window & the camper stopped.  My cousin was always doing this. So, now he & the other driver, who was from Germany, where Bernardo lives, carried on a conversation from the vehicles, for about a half hour. 

While this was going on, I watched the cattle graze, took photos of the flowers & enjoyed the views.

bull-cropped-1

flowers-crop-comp-2

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only reason Bernardo stopped talking was because another car was trying to get down the mountain!!!!!!!! 

We continued our drive up the mountain to our destination – Ossario Pianto di Romano.   It is a breathtaking monument on the hill where the Battle of Calatafimi took place against the Bourbon soldiers and a tribute to all of young partisans, who were known as Garibaldi’s Freedom Fighters.  [I recently read the book “My Life” by Giuseppe Garibaldi where he tells the story of the origins of the freedom fighters & their journey. A great book!]

front-ossario-comside-ossario-com

side-view-plaque-cnc

I was surprised that Bernardo took me there, as he had been complaining for days that I spent too much time at the cemetery & inquiring into records for our ancestors!!

From this vantage point I was also able to take a panoramic photo of the whole town of Calatafimi!! 

town-of-calatafimi-3rd-comp

While in Calatafimi

During my visit to the Stato Civile in Calatafimi [see my previous blog “Dove sei Giuseppe Maria Vivona??] , I had the impression that word went out that an American was here inquire about her family. The reason I say that is because as Bernardo & I were waiting in line to speak with Signora Serafina, a facebook friend, Salvo, came running down the stairs.

Signore Salvo & Signora Serafina
Signore Salvo & Signora Serafina

I had texted him prior to my trip but didn’t state when I would be in Calatafimi. It was a pleasure to meet him. Salvo Mucaria, in addition to his friend Rosario Vivona, have posted many photos & histories of the town & its people. A truly wonderful project.

[Calatafimi terra ricca di tradizioni, storia e orgoglio sociale  on Facebook  https://www.facebook.com/groups/calatafimi/  ]  

After leaving the Stato Civile, Bernardo & I walked around the mountain town. I really enjoyed the atmosphere there & the smell of fresh mountain air. It was something I missed after leaving Colorado many years ago.

We found the House of Giuseppe Garibaldi & went in for a tour.

Casa Garibaldi Plaque
Casa Garibaldi Plaque
Another wall plaque outside Garibaldi's house
Another wall plaque outside Garibaldi’s house
Entry Foyer in Garibaldi's house
Entry Foyer in Garibaldi’s house

We also walked the streets which I enjoy doing as you get to see the sights & hear the sounds of everyday life. 

Chiesa del Santissimo Crocifisso in Calatafimi
Chiesa del Santissimo Crocifisso in Calatafimi
A Calatafimi Veggie Vendor
A Calatafimi Veggie Vendor
Chiesa Della Vergine del Soccorso o Chiesella
Chiesa Della Vergine del Soccorso o Chiesella
Stairs in Calatafimi
Stairs in Calatafimi
A Street View in Calatafimi
A Street View in Calatafimi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bernardo again said “Andiamo”, I have another place to show you. That adventure I’ll cover next time. 

Dove sei Giuseppe Maria Vivona??

Great-grandparents Giuseppe Maria Vivona & Angelina Giliberti Vivona. [Photo courtesy of K.Vega & D. Veit]
Great-grandparents Giuseppe Maria Vivona & Angelina Giliberti Vivona. [Photo courtesy of K.Vega & D. Veit]

I have been searching for information about my other great-grandfather Giuseppe Maria Vivona for two decades. 

I’ll start with what I do know, the pedigree chart:

Vivona Pedigree Chart
Vivona Pedigree Chart

Here’s more information I found through my research:

As indicated on the above chart, he is the son of Salvatore VIVONA and Agostina BOLENA and was born in May 1865 in Calatafimi,Trapani,Sicily. He was baptized the same day in the San Giuliano Church by the priest Giuseppe Orlando. His godparents were Giorgio and Francesca Scianna.

His occupation was a barber surgeon.

He married Angelina GILIBERTI (born in Castellammare del Golfo July 1867 daughter of Michele and Girolama LaTorre) on 13 Nov 1889 at San Giuliano Parish in Calatafimi, Sicily.

They lived in Castellammare del Golfo and had the following children:

  • Salvatore VIVONA – born May 1891
  • Maria VIVONA – born August 1894 – married Antonino Bongiorno in CdelG January 1912
  • Michele VIVONA – born & died May 1896
  • Michele VIVONA was born May 1897 – married Anna Frazzitta in Palermo May 1921
  • Girolama VIVONA was born January 1899
  • Rosaria VIVONA was born Apr 1901
  • Giuseppe VIVONA was born February 1906
  • Elisabetta VIVONA was born on 8 Jul 1908

Angelina Giliberti Vivona immigrated along with her daughters Giroloma Vivona age 14 and Elisabetta age 5 on September 30, 1913 aboard the ship “SS Canada” into the Port of New York. Angelina was listed as a widow on the manifest.  Two other children, Rosaria and Giuseppe followed afterwards.

Angelina died in November 1928 at the age of 61 at Harlem Hospital in New York City, NY.

So, what happened to my great-grandfather Giuseppe Maria Vivona???? I assumed that he died in Sicily, as the ship manifest indicated. But in my research I have learned that many women who immigrated listed themselves as widows if not traveling with a male family member. So did he really die in Sicily or did he live his life elsewhere apart from his family? 

I have searched files on the Ellis Island web site without any success. But did he immigrate elsewhere?  

When I was in Sicily, my cousin Bernardo and I went to the Stato Civile in Calatafimi to speak with the clerk Signora Serafina, who has helped me via snail mail in the past. 

Serafina in the Stato Civile in Calatafimi
Serafina in the Stato Civile in Calatafimi

She pulled the registry book for him but other than his birth and marriage, there was no other annotation. So he didn’t die in Calatafimi.

Previously I wrote to the Stato Civile in Castellammare del Golfo, as this is where he and Angelina lived and raised their children, but no records were found.  But I visited it any way, but to no avail.

I also inquired at the Cimitero Comunale in Castellammare del Golfo with Maurizio Cassara, but there was no record. 

During one of our morning coffee meetings, my friend Enzo recommended that I go to the Biblioteca and ask to see the city directory.  So cousin Bernardo and I went there but the archivist was on vacation but would be back on Monday.  Early Monday morning, before going for my morning café normale, I walked to la Biblioteca.

After being buzzed in, I spoke with a young librarian. I told her who I was looking for, my great-grandfather and gave her all the information I had. I said I didn’t care if he had many wives and other children.  She laughed and said it was possible. She then told the archivist. The gentleman looked through from 1908 until 1935 but found no entry for Giuseppe Maria Vivona.

So where the heck is he?? 

I have written many letters to those with the surname Vivona in and around Castellammare del Golfo, Calatafimi, New York and New Jersey but received no response.

Newly found cousins in north Florida have been gracious in providing me photos of Angelina and her children.  Plus cousin Kim and cousin Dede provided the photo of the painting of Angelina and Giuseppe that is posted at the beginning of the blog.

But we still have no clue as to where he lived and where he’s buried.  Hopefully you, the reader, would know. If so, leave a comment.  One day before I die, I would like to visit his grave.

Locating the grave of our Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano

The only photo that I have seen of Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano
The only photo that I have seen of Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano

I was excited about today. It was the day that my cousin Maria (Bernardo’s Zia) was going to show us where our great-grandfather was buried. Bernardo and I were at the cemetery 4 times & could not locate the grave. We looked above ground at the mausoleums & below ground in the catacombs. But I remembered the grave being above ground. We even went to the office to inquire of the records but there was no information, nada. How was that possible??

I could kick myself, as 17 years ago when cousin Lorenzo brought Laurie & I to the cemetery, we saw the grave. I even took notes of each grave that we visited. I wasn’t bold enough to take photos at that time. I have since learned to do so.

Cimitero Comunale (Via Euclide - 91014Castellammare Del Golfo(TP))
Cimitero Comunale (Via Euclide – 91014Castellammare Del Golfo(TP))

Bernardo picked me up and we drove to cousin Maria’s home. We had café’ normale and then piled into the car & drove to the “Cimitero Comunale” on the other side of town.  Maria reminded us that each week she changed the flowers at her father-in-laws grave.

Once we arrived, Maria moved quickly through the cemetery. She started rolling one of those huge “library” ladders & started to climb up. All we could do was hold her & the ladder. Bernardo fetched the water & I handed Maria the flowers.

Mausoleum wall where our Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano rests
Mausoleum wall where our Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano rests

But, there it was. No wonder I couldn’t see it. For those of you who know me, I am vertically challenged, aka short.

Plus the inscription on the stone is faded. 

Gravemarker for Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano in Cimitero Comunale (Via Euclide - 91014Castellammare Del Golfo(TP))
Gravemarker for Great-Grandfather Lorenzo Milano in Cimitero Comunale (Via Euclide – 91014Castellammare Del Golfo(TP))

 

 

 

 

 

I couldn’t thank Maria enough. After paying our respects, I went with Maria to her husband, my cousin, Lorenzo’s mausoleum. We swept out the dust, watered the plants, changed the water in all the vases & added fresh cut flowers. We visited all the other family graves.

The office was closed when we were leaving but when I returned home, I wrote to Signor Maurizio Cassara inquiring into the process and cost to clean and restore my great grandfather’s grave marker.  I have yet to hear from him.

In & Around Castellammare del Golfo

When I arrived at the Café Garibaldi this morning, I was greeted by the owner Vito & sat outside. A little while later, I was joined by a gentleman, Enzo, who is a childhood friend of my cousin Bernardo.

Enzo
Enzo

What a wonderful man. He is a retired IT (Information Technology) professor. When I told him I was a retired mainframe computer programmer & web designer, we both laughed. We had a very enjoyable morning discussing tech. He also asked to see the charts & book I had as people had told him why I was here. I laughed again, as I was brought up in a larger city where everyone did not know your name nor your family.

Cousin Bernardo tracked me down & said “Andiamo”. Today he decided that it was time to go for a drive!! He told everyone we would be gone all day.

So, he drove us to see the Cathedral at Monreale (gorgeous)…..

First view of the Cathedral
First view of the Cathedral
Restoring & cleaning the facade of the Cathedral
Restoring & cleaning the facade of the Cathedral

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fountain in front of Cathedrale of Monreale
Fountain in front of Cathedral of Monreale

 

Inside Cathedral Monreale
Inside Cathedral Monreale
Another wall in the Cathedral
Another wall in the Cathedral

 

 

 

 

 

… then to Palermo to see the Capuchin Catacombs and Theatre Massimo.

Outside of Teatro Massimo
Outside of Teatro Massimo
Foyer of Teatro Massimo
Foyer of Teatro Massimo

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had a wonderful lunch at Spinnato’s (spinach rice cake, tea & sfogliatelle). The sfogliatelle was so delicious – to die for!!

Another exciting day in Sicily!! 

Later that night I took a walk which led me to Mama Cocha for a delicious late night snack – an outrageous small pizza. And of course, one scoop of gelato from Vernaci.

Gelato at Vernaci
Gelato at Vernaci

Finally!! My Long Awaited Trip – Part 2

Sunday

Breakfast (café normale & a pistachio cornetto) at Café Garibaldi where I met a gal & her Mom. After introductions, I learned that she works with refugees in northern Italy. Her Mom is French, married an Austrian & divorced. They asked why I was here & I showed them my paternal family chart & my book. They were fascinated. The gal said she knows nothing of her father’s family & maybe she should start asking questions. They’re here for 4 days, a long weekend.

Word has gone out that my family is from here & I am researching my roots. So now, folks are stopping by the café as they are interested in seeing my family tree chart & the book.

Bernardo met me on the Corso. He knew I was researching both family trees & tracked down a Vincenzo Vivona, who we met at another café on the other side of town.

Signore Vincenzo Vivona
Signore Vincenzo Vivona

Vincenzo is from another branch of the Vivona’s & gave me his sister’s name & address in Brooklyn, as she may know more info.

Along the drive, we saw lots of motorcycles & heard that there was going to be a blessing of the helmets.

We drove out to cousin Lorenzo’s vineyard. I was very sad to hear that the vineyard was sold as my sister Laurie & I had many happy times there. 

The Vineyard in 1999
The Vineyard in 1999

Bernardo said cousin Maria was waiting at his house, so he drove us there, saw Maria & Vincenza. Maria reminded me that I was invited to dinner today.  She’s such a lovley lady. She said we will go to the cemetery during the week to show us where our great-grandfather is buried.

We left with Maria & drove to both marinas – Alcamo & CdelG. The CdelG marina was packed with cars & you couldn’t get through – unreal – La passeggiata Domenica. So we walked.

Harbour
Marina

Dinner at Maria’s – OMG – what a feast – homemade pasta, salad, grilled meat, potatoes & zucchini, plus many dolce.  I kept closing my eyes while eating & Maria thought I needed to sleep. I told her that I was in heaven & savoring each bite. Nothing like homemade spaghetti!!!   What a day!!!!!  

Maria's homemade spaghetti
Maria’s homemade spaghetti
More dolce - Berries
More dolce – Berries
Maria cooking dinner
Maria cooking dinner

I decided to walk back to the B&B so I could begin to digest that wonderful meal.

Finally!! My First Full Day Back in Castellammare del Golfo

I slept for 12 hours & finally felt human again. I got up, showered & dressed just in time as cousin Bernardo rang the bell to say we were going to visit his Aunt / my cousin Maria. I was thrilled!!!!!!! 

I know this is hard to understand, but when we started walking the streets of Castellammare del Golfo, I felt, as I did 16 years ago, that I was finally home again!!  Only 2 other people understand this feeling.

Along the way, Bernardo pointed out houses where various family members had lived over the decades. When we arrived at Maria’s, the house was the same, including 2 flights up to the main living area. 16 years after my last visit and Maria looked wonderful!!

Cousin Maria
Cousin Maria

She still had the flowers I sent the previous week, along with my note saying that I would be in town. We had “café’ normale” and visited for a short time. Maria was very gracious as I had a standing invitation for lunch during my stay.

As we continued our walk, Bernardo spoke to everyone along the way. I was always introduced this way: ”Cugina Celia dall’America, che di parenti hanno vissuto qui. Lei si sta occupando l’albero genealogico. E oh, lei non parla italiano” [Cousin Celia from America, who’s family lived here. She is researching the family tree. And oh, she does not speak Italian]. I heard this hundreds of times!!  Funny, but many people wanted to speak to me trying out their knowledge of English.  [More on this later.]

During our walk I met the family (Aunt Nina & Mama) of Vito SanFilippo, a childhood friend of Bernardo’s who lives near me in Florida. Another gracious invitation for lunch during my stay.

We walked back to the B&B and Felice walked me to the Café Garibaldi. He introduced me to Vito, the owner, so I could go there in the morning to have my breakfast. Yes, I’m staying at a B&B but the breakfast “B” is off the premises.

Cafe Garibaldi for breakfast, meeting fellow travelers & meeting all the locals.

Bernardo & I continued our walk. This time we walked to his home so I could meet his wife Vincenza. I was invited back for lunch. We continued our walking tour all around town. Back to Bernardo’s house for lunch where I also met his youngest son Alessandro (a young man of few words).  Vincenza made a wonderful lunch – pasta with white broccoli & sausage with oven-roasted potatoes.  This was my main meal for the day, as there was no way I could sit down & have my “normal” American dinner.

We continued our walking tour the rest of the afternoon until around 7pm when Bernardo walked me back to the B&B. I was exhausted but what a wonderful 1st day in Castellammare del Golfo!!!


The next day, I got up around 6am, showered, got dressed & walked up to the Café Garibaldi for my “café normale” (espresso), a cornetto (chocolate) & a glass of ice water (normal with the high-test espresso). I sat outside and watched the parade of people, shops opening & people looking at me (a stranger in town).  I had to be back by 10am as Bernardo & I could go to the car rental shop. When I arrived at the B&B, Felice and his wife, my cousin, Maria Elena were waiting. We drove to the rental place on the other side of town.

 At last, Bernardo & I took off in the car & went to the Cala Marina to watch the fishing boats come in & the folks line up to buy the fresh fish. What a wonderful experience!
Waiting for the daily fishing catch at the Harbour
Waiting for the daily fishing catch at the Harbour

Bernardo, of course, saw many people that he knew & talked & talked.  More espresso. I met a couple from California. Lisa, the wife, tells me that they live here fulltime & her husband travels back & forth to CA to check on his business.

Afterwards, we drove to the cemetery. We visited the graves that he knew. I took photos this time (which I didn’t do 16 years ago).  But no matter where we looked, both above ground & in the underground catacombs, we couldn’t find our great-grandfather’s grave. We went to the office & Maurizio (the manager) had no record of him.  I showed him my notes from my last visit but no record was found. A question for cousin Maria.

More next time!