Finally!! My Long Awaited Trip – Part 2


Breakfast (café normale & a pistachio cornetto) at Café Garibaldi where I met a gal & her Mom. After introductions, I learned that she works with refugees in northern Italy. Her Mom is French, married an Austrian & divorced. They asked why I was here & I showed them my paternal family chart & my book. They were fascinated. The gal said she knows nothing of her father’s family & maybe she should start asking questions. They’re here for 4 days, a long weekend.

Word has gone out that my family is from here & I am researching my roots. So now, folks are stopping by the café as they are interested in seeing my family tree chart & the book.

Bernardo met me on the Corso. He knew I was researching both family trees & tracked down a Vincenzo Vivona, who we met at another café on the other side of town.

Signore Vincenzo Vivona
Signore Vincenzo Vivona

Vincenzo is from another branch of the Vivona’s & gave me his sister’s name & address in Brooklyn, as she may know more info.

Along the drive, we saw lots of motorcycles & heard that there was going to be a blessing of the helmets.

We drove out to cousin Lorenzo’s vineyard. I was very sad to hear that the vineyard was sold as my sister Laurie & I had many happy times there. 

The Vineyard in 1999
The Vineyard in 1999

Bernardo said cousin Maria was waiting at his house, so he drove us there, saw Maria & Vincenza. Maria reminded me that I was invited to dinner today.  She’s such a lovley lady. She said we will go to the cemetery during the week to show us where our great-grandfather is buried.

We left with Maria & drove to both marinas – Alcamo & CdelG. The CdelG marina was packed with cars & you couldn’t get through – unreal – La passeggiata Domenica. So we walked.


Dinner at Maria’s – OMG – what a feast – homemade pasta, salad, grilled meat, potatoes & zucchini, plus many dolce.  I kept closing my eyes while eating & Maria thought I needed to sleep. I told her that I was in heaven & savoring each bite. Nothing like homemade spaghetti!!!   What a day!!!!!  

Maria's homemade spaghetti
Maria’s homemade spaghetti
More dolce - Berries
More dolce – Berries
Maria cooking dinner
Maria cooking dinner

I decided to walk back to the B&B so I could begin to digest that wonderful meal.

Finally!! My First Full Day Back in Castellammare del Golfo

I slept for 12 hours & finally felt human again. I got up, showered & dressed just in time as cousin Bernardo rang the bell to say we were going to visit his Aunt / my cousin Maria. I was thrilled!!!!!!! 

I know this is hard to understand, but when we started walking the streets of Castellammare del Golfo, I felt, as I did 16 years ago, that I was finally home again!!  Only 2 other people understand this feeling.

Along the way, Bernardo pointed out houses where various family members had lived over the decades. When we arrived at Maria’s, the house was the same, including 2 flights up to the main living area. 16 years after my last visit and Maria looked wonderful!!

Cousin Maria
Cousin Maria

She still had the flowers I sent the previous week, along with my note saying that I would be in town. We had “café’ normale” and visited for a short time. Maria was very gracious as I had a standing invitation for lunch during my stay.

As we continued our walk, Bernardo spoke to everyone along the way. I was always introduced this way: ”Cugina Celia dall’America, che di parenti hanno vissuto qui. Lei si sta occupando l’albero genealogico. E oh, lei non parla italiano” [Cousin Celia from America, who’s family lived here. She is researching the family tree. And oh, she does not speak Italian]. I heard this hundreds of times!!  Funny, but many people wanted to speak to me trying out their knowledge of English.  [More on this later.]

During our walk I met the family (Aunt Nina & Mama) of Vito SanFilippo, a childhood friend of Bernardo’s who lives near me in Florida. Another gracious invitation for lunch during my stay.

We walked back to the B&B and Felice walked me to the Café Garibaldi. He introduced me to Vito, the owner, so I could go there in the morning to have my breakfast. Yes, I’m staying at a B&B but the breakfast “B” is off the premises.

Cafe Garibaldi for breakfast, meeting fellow travelers & meeting all the locals.

Bernardo & I continued our walk. This time we walked to his home so I could meet his wife Vincenza. I was invited back for lunch. We continued our walking tour all around town. Back to Bernardo’s house for lunch where I also met his youngest son Alessandro (a young man of few words).  Vincenza made a wonderful lunch – pasta with white broccoli & sausage with oven-roasted potatoes.  This was my main meal for the day, as there was no way I could sit down & have my “normal” American dinner.

We continued our walking tour the rest of the afternoon until around 7pm when Bernardo walked me back to the B&B. I was exhausted but what a wonderful 1st day in Castellammare del Golfo!!!

The next day, I got up around 6am, showered, got dressed & walked up to the Café Garibaldi for my “café normale” (espresso), a cornetto (chocolate) & a glass of ice water (normal with the high-test espresso). I sat outside and watched the parade of people, shops opening & people looking at me (a stranger in town).  I had to be back by 10am as Bernardo & I could go to the car rental shop. When I arrived at the B&B, Felice and his wife, my cousin, Maria Elena were waiting. We drove to the rental place on the other side of town.

 At last, Bernardo & I took off in the car & went to the Cala Marina to watch the fishing boats come in & the folks line up to buy the fresh fish. What a wonderful experience!
Waiting for the daily fishing catch at the Harbour
Waiting for the daily fishing catch at the Harbour

Bernardo, of course, saw many people that he knew & talked & talked.  More espresso. I met a couple from California. Lisa, the wife, tells me that they live here fulltime & her husband travels back & forth to CA to check on his business.

Afterwards, we drove to the cemetery. We visited the graves that he knew. I took photos this time (which I didn’t do 16 years ago).  But no matter where we looked, both above ground & in the underground catacombs, we couldn’t find our great-grandfather’s grave. We went to the office & Maurizio (the manager) had no record of him.  I showed him my notes from my last visit but no record was found. A question for cousin Maria.

More next time!